A regular follower of Travel Between The Pages recently asked for a recommendation on a “non-touristy” place to visit in Philadelphia. Without hesitation, I suggested the wonderful Rosenbach Museum and Library in the city’s charming Rittenhouse Square neighborhood.

It’s not really a secret that I think the Rosenbach is an overlooked gem in a city that’s jam packed with great museums and historic sites. Over the years, i’ve shared stories about some of the museum’s superb special exhibitions.

Located in a pair of elegant 19th-century townhomes near the leafy Rittenhouse Square, The Rosenbach of the Free Library of Philadelphia houses one of the North America’s best collections of rare books,manuscripts, literary memorabilia, and antiques. The collection is divided into two libraries, which are regionally and chronologically organized, with the East library showcasing such works as the second folio of William Shakespeare’s plays, Bram Stoker’s handwritten notes for Dracula,  and a handwritten manuscript of James Joyce’s Ulysses. Lewis Carroll’s own copy of Alice in Wonderland, a first edition of Don Quixote, and much more.

The West library focuses on the literary contributions of the United States, showcasing the only surviving copy of Benjamin Franklin’s Poor Richard’s Almanac, as well as the first book ever printed in America, some 20 years after the Pilgrims’ arrival. The museum’s collection, one of the largest of early American books, rivals only the Library of Congress in size and scope. You can also spot items like rings worn by Robert Louis Stevenson and Lord Byron’s card case among the countless first editions.

In 1954, after the deaths of the Rosenbach brothers – Dr. A.S.W., a dealer in rare books and manuscripts, and Philip, a dealer of fine arts and antiques – their individual libraries and collections were organized in the doctor’s townhouse. In 2002, The Rosenbach expanded into the historic house next door for more research and display space. In recent years, The Rosenbach has limited visitors to timed tickets and guided tours, so it’s important to plan ahead. The hours are Thu–Sat 10:30 AM–6:00 PM; Sun 10:30 AM–4:30 PM.